Drinks

Some people really, truly want to splurge on New Year’s Eve.

Whether they’ve won a chunk of change in some 50-50 fundraiser or cashed out their bank account in anticipation of a Mayan apocalypse, they have money to burn and vintage French Champagne on their party menu.

Of course, the greatness of vintage Champagne often eludes novices. The wines are natural and intricate, capturing the essence of terrain, weather and even the hand responsible for fermentation.

Armand de Brignac’s Brut Gold is a whisper of wind on the nose, carrying with it faint aromas of clay, rock and the teasing fragrancy of sun-dried flowers.

A sip reveals something of the earth, with mineral traces. But fruit and toasted white bread create a headier, fresher sensation.

All of this lingers, leaving a crisp, dry reminder.

Really, it’s a simple yet beautiful wine. It breathes the air that surrounded it from growth through fermentation, offering nothing bold. Rather, view it as something to contemplate.

Subtle--that would be the word for what a few hundred dollars will buy.

Other fine Champagnes differ in character. But they all leave an impression of the chalky soil and changing seasons.