Drinks: Dalmore 12 Year Single Malt

Once upon a time, Dalmore 12 year old scotch ranked as the best single malt for the price conscious. When the distillery changed its aging process, splitting evenly the spirit’s time in bourbon and sherry casks, Dalmore disappeared from shelves.

The new malt, which arrived in 2008, sacrificed some of its highland heft in favor of an approachable, almost timid dram.

It sends sweet, floral impression to the nose, weighted by something akin to burnt fruitcake and candied orange peel. Work hard enough, and you also pick up on rye, espresso and the subtle sting from the sherry cask.

On the palate Dalmore’s 12 is almost feeble at first. Rounded and smooth, the spirit seems unable to make up its mind, wavering for a moment before soft flavors emerge—caramel, citrus and scorched butter initially, then harsher reminders of wood and alcohol. The astringent sensation of sherry wood lingers at the back of your throat, giving the malt a nice, bittersweet finish.

It’s almost too demure for a highland spirit. Yet it’s also casual and easy to sip. If they would only slap the 2003 price tag back on the bottle, it might be worth another look.